ILLUMINATOR - Christmas in London

 

“I’ll be back” says London’s Festive Season 

Last year Harvey Nichols summed up the mood of Christmas Past with its window display. The elegant lights of Knightsbridge glittered, silvery and cold: BAH HUMBUG. 

It was a stroke of genius. This year’s Yuletide feels more upbeat, almost defiant. Alongside the annual switching–on of the city’s Christmas lights, the windows of Selfridges in Oxford Street, of Fortnum & Mason in Piccadilly, and a host of Central London shops, big and small, are a major triumph.

 

By mid-November, most of the Christmas Lights have switched on (Oxford Street’s mega display was up and running soon after Halloween this year) and what’s even better, many of them dovetail into a comfortable night–time stroll through the city, surrounded by enough comestibles and consumer items to make for a very satisfying evening. 

 

Over 1 million LED bulbs across London’s West End were lit on Friday 12 November in world’s largest Christmas switch-on - from the shopping mecca of Oxford Street, Regent Street and South Molton Street, the luxury boutiques of Bond Street and Mayfair to the bright lights of Piccadilly Circus, culture of St James’s and theatreland of Leicester Square In keeping with the West End’s commitment to sustainability, all of this year’s Christmas lights utilise the latest in LED technology, which provide energy savings of up to 75% against conventional lighting. Plus, retailers across the West End have sustainable festive offerings for those looking to shop more sustainably. 60% of products in Selfridges’ Christmas store are sustainably sourced and John Lewis has a ‘Makers Market’ pop-up shop for local artists and makers. 

Oxford Street

Then on to Covent Garden (from 9 November), including small but perfectly formed Seven Dials, and the market buildings (100k lights across the Piazza, 30k lights on the tree). Eat, shop, browse, as they say. 

There are more festive things to see if you head off to the Chelsea Christmas Lights (November 20th from 2pm). As well as twinkling ‘star lights’ on Sloane St, Sloane Square and Duke of York Square, there’s festive food and winter cocktails on the 20th, as well as street entertainments. Likewise, Marylebone Village (Marylebone High Street) switches on its lights on 10 November when traditional activities like wreath making take place, plus live music. 

“Winter Light” at the Southbank Centre has an open air exhibition of ten light works by international artists, on top of its well–known street food and entertainers.

As an added extra, there’s a pop–up fashion house in Shoreditch: Gucci Circolo (Whitby St, E1: Until December 31) might make for some truly precious Christmas gift ideas. You can’t miss it. The outside walls are plastered with the famous logo, while inside there’s a fabulous Gucci cafe and a bookstore (fashion, photos and art) plus you can purchase from the Gucci 100 collection (centenary celebration of the brand).  

Gucci Circolo pop-up in Shoreditch

 

If you’re after stocking fillers, then Fortnum & Mason has lots of teas, coffees, biscuits and hot chocolate in gorgeous tins. Also wines. And hampers. And gloves. Everybody needs gloves at this time of year. 

Incidentally, did you know that Handsome of Stockholm not only make gloves (the kind that Lady Gaga wears), they offer the option of buying a replacement (left or right) if you lose one. So thoughtful.

Liberty (on the corner of Great Marlborough Street, parallel with Oxford Street) also stocks adorable dog sweaters, collars and toys. Which makes a pleasant change from the plethora of sleep aids for insomniacs currently parading as Christmas gifts. Plenty of time for that in the New Year.  

Most anything from anna + nina (Selfridges and Liberty) would be likely to surprise, if not delight. Their colourful glass candles are covetable, and the new Christmas tree decorations are fun – Frieda Khalo baubles, pink mushrooms, lizards, stars, and a designer botox syringe to hang from your tree…

 

Mariage Freres has also opened its first UK tea emporium in Covent Garden (38 King St WC2). Aside from the fine teas, there’s a restaurant specialising in “tea gastronomy” and a tea museum. Sup the tea, love the style.

Mariage Freres tea emporium, Covent Garden

 

If Christmas is for children, then there are some promising family activities on offer. 

Apart from the perennial appeal of South Kensington’s Museums, make sure you pay one last visit to the ice rink outside the Natural History Museum. This is its last ever Winter and it was easily the prettiest illuminated skating venue in London. Tickets available for both the skating and the “Fantastic Beasts” exhibition. 

 

On the other side of town, on December 1st the Tower of London reveals its immersive trail, celebrating both the history of the building and the animals that once lived in the Tower Menagerie from 1200–1835. We’re promised a spectacle of sound and light as animal–themed installations conjure up a pageant of elephants, polar bears and ravens. Today’s London Zoo was founded by 150 animals relocated from the Tower Menagerie. No ice rink by the Tower this year (there are secret plans for extra attractions in 2022) but a Christmas market by the Thames. 

Christmas at the Tower of London

 

Going back another 1,000 years, there’s a Roman London family walk: an interactive tour for adults and children aged 5 and over. Tour the remains of a Roman city wall and Londinium’s hidden amphitheatre, where gladiators once fought; discover the temple of Mithras. Wednesdays at 11am. From City Info Centre, St Paul’s Churchyard. Lasts about an hour. Afterwards pop back to St Paul’s Cathedral for music and Christmas services: book online. 

 

Older children (and adults) might be tempted by the ‘Illuminated River’ guided walking tour. Described as a gentle evening stroll along the Thames, the walk stretches from London Bridge to the Millennium footbridge. Starts inside the entrance of Blackfriars Station Northside. Pre booking is essential. Limit of six people per walk, which takes about 75 minutes. It opens on November 12, and takes in four bridges, each one part of a nine–bridge art installation, an orchestrated LED lighting sequence designed by New York artist Leo Villareal.

 

Further afield, Kew Gardens’ “Spectacle” (17 November to January 9) provides after–dark illuminations including a Cathedral of Light, sparkling tree top walks, fire gardens, plus a light and music show at the Palm House pond. And refreshments.

Cathedral of Light from Kew Garden’s Spectacle illuminations

 

Hyde Park Winter Wonderland is also back from 19 November, but you must book tickets: hydeparkwinterwonderland.com

And if all this outdoors activity is making you feel cold, then Hidden London is open again. London Underground is once more conducting tours from the warmth of the old Jubilee Line stations at Charing Cross and the 100 year–old labyrinthine Piccadilly Circus. Also virtual tours, we are told. 

 

And so this is Christmas… fitting, then to end with Yoko Ono’s ‘Mend Piece’ at the Whitechapel Art Gallery. It’s a simple idea. Lots of broken pottery is spread out and visitors are invited to repair the remnants with glue, twine, scissors and tape. The results are displayed on shelves. Sounds whacky? It’s based on the Japanese idea of kintsugi (where broken pottery is stuck together with gold lacquer, so the break is part of the piece, not hidden). Yoko Ono’s instruction: “Mend carefully. Think of mending the world at the same time.” Until December 12 2021.